Bill, continuing to play a vital role in the city’s renaissance until his death in 1998. After serving in intelligence posts during World War II, he returned to San Miguel and began recruiting young American veterans to study at Bellas Artes on the G.I. Having happened upon the flagging city in 1937 after graduating from Princeton, he was instantly enchanted, promptly becoming a familiar sight around town atop his burro. ![]() ![]() Beguiled by its architectural majesty and exquisite light, they took up residence in droves, establishing art and cultural institutes including the Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes and the Instituto Allende, both cofounded by Chicagoan Stirling Dickinson. These days, San Miguel’s eminently strollable streets-most chockablock with low-slung buildings awash in shades of ochre, mustard, and vermilion-will keep you happily meandering for hours, as will its countless galleries and chic boutiques, whose sleek storefronts and soignée wares underscore the city’s dramatic juxtaposition of past and present.įittingly, it was artists who first resuscitated San Miguel, starting about a century ago. One of Mexico’s most populous cities under Spanish rule, it teetered on the brink of ghost-town status in the early 20th century owing to a string of misfortunes, including the depletion of its silver ore and an influenza epidemic. San Miguel’s trove of colonial treasures have remained remarkably intact thanks in part to its tumultuous history.
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